Niño Jesus is a backcountry of the city of Iriga. Barely populated. No signal. No videoke. No pushing and shoving. No Christmas madness. I doubt if the locals here even celebrate that most wonderful day of the year. Ironically, the place is named after whom the Christmas bells toll.


We made a two-kilometer hike going to the Oliva family’s farmstead, somewhere unknown to Google map. Exhausting, but it sure is good to reap the rewards of three years of non-smoking. Feels like I can climb any peak again the way I do during those mountaineering days. I used to consume more than a pack of cigarettes back then and still, I can beat anybody in an uphill climb even with a 20-kilo load on my back.

Today I can only outrace what, two septuagenarians, one female, and a 10-year old kid.

Elmer Nev Valenzuela_76c

An hour of journey by foot is no trouble for Papu — the Oliva’s padre de familia. He made it with his snow white socks and sneakers without a spot. That’s hiking 101 for you. Manoy Jaime, the farm hand, received us with his betel nut paraphernalia in clutches, and the two sat down for a bottle of Emperador Lights afterwards. Probably the most popular drink in the country I haven’t tried yet.

And so today — due to my inquisitiveness as to how a local liquor company could create a colossal brand that would make them acquire Spain’s Fundador Pedro Domecq — I took a swig of this brandy for the very first time.

Wasn’t so bad at all.


Manoy Jaime has his sons to do the heavy tasks. Although judging by how he brandish his bolo strapped around his waist, I believe the man can still hack the entire woodlands to the ground.

This year’s El Niño Phenomenon must have dried-up the acreage it left the family no choice but resort to producing copra. A tough job, his boy would confess. From coconut cracking to shelling to parring and finally to sun drying or — if the weather does not permit — direct heating. All the backbreaking job in weeks’ span and for a measly sum.





Niño Jesus is a perfect hideaway from the holiday insanity. Materialism hasn’t corrupted the folks out here so far. I doubt if they even heard the Force has Awaken already. But I’d rather stay cool here in the quietude of this place than be trapped in the chaotic streets of Manila today; breathe the crisp air or take a whiff of cattle shit more willingly than make a pig of myself on every banquet. I would rather strum Ang Paskoy Sumapit under their humble hut.

We must simplify Christmas and go back to the real point of the occasion. Find your way to “Niño Jesus.”

14 thoughts on “ESCAPING CHRISTMAS

  1. What an excellent and timely piece of writing and photography! I wish that many young people and materialistic adults would read this blog post and internalize the lessons…

    1. A mother — with child in tow — approached me yesterday asking for directions. She needs to get to this recruitment agency which offers jobs for Malaysia. While everybody’s tied up with the holiday madness, some are simply lost getting through with their lives.

  2. I was in Iriga once but I barely remember the area but Bicol has always been part of my college escapades!
    Was that you by the door frame looking out? were you singing “ang pasko ay sumapit’?

  3. Wonderful story and great photography. Really enjoyed your narration. Better you then me though, my bad knee would have probably been screaming bloody murder ¼ of the way there. I miss that ability to be able to scramble around the hills and mountains.

  4. I did the sam elmer…. Went to spend christmas at Mt. Province away from the noisy city … I felt energize but so lonely too. looking forward to spend many day there again…. so beautiful and simple….

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